A multi-day walk from Mallacoota inlet, taking us across the Victoria / NSW
border to Nadgee. The beach scenery, inland lake and huge sand dunes along
with great weather makes this a memorable pleasant trip. Two parks are
crossed: the Croajingolong national park, specifically the Cape Howe
wilderness area and the Nadgee nature reserve.
Nadgee wilderness walk is a spectacular 50km walk from Merrica River to
Mallacoota, with coastal views. It's great for birdwatching, whale watching
and camping."
National Parks
The map below is half of the route we are taking which is to the NSW border.
Day 0 - getting there.
We left Melbourne at around 6pm in a howling gale. Traffic was almost at a
standstill due to it being a Friday evening. It did not help either that the
visibility was as bad as being in pea soup fog, except that this fog was a red
cloud of dust blown in from the western deserts of Victoria.
At the last minute I swapped my Macpac Eclipse tent to my Minaret
thinking that I would need a more robust solution. The Minaret being a
tunnel tent is designed to withstand this kind of weather, whereas the other
tent though strong would be less comfortable with its sides bowing under the
pressure.
We stayed at Lakes Entrance in the Youth Hostel, arriving at 11pm having
stopped at a fish and chip shop in Traralgon for a bite to eat. At 8:00am we
were up and out, excited to start the day. We were much happier here
than an in Melbourne, it's a different place altogether: I phoned Caroline
and she said the power is out and much damage was around, here it is like
nothing troubles the world.
Day 1 - Cross the inlet and to Lake Barracoota.
We arrive at Mallacoota 10:30am. It looks to be a pretty little village
and a prospect for a future visit to stay, being by the sea with a river
inlet. We enjoyed an early brunch/lunch at the foreshore cafe in the
hour upon arrival.
Mallacoota inlet is a large expanse of water barring our way to the beginning
of our walk. We prearranged a ferry service to take us across. Scotty our
ferry captain, arrived at 11:30am to take us across the inlet. Scotty
met the cliche sea captain description: long beard, beanie, and many a yarn to
tell.
We had, however to wait for his ship mate as he'd slept in having been out
late collecting abalone. Once he arrived we ferried our cars up to his place
for safe parking whilst we were away. There is a couple of ways the boats take
to get to the trail start, due to the wind and current we started at the
northern jetty and went through a channel north of a spit called Goodwin
Sands. The trip took around 3/4 an hour on choppy waters, none of us got sick
fortunately, a bit longer though it might have been a different story.
We arrive at a jetty which leads to Jingalong Lodge which is now abandoned.
Scotty told us about a pub that was there during the gold mining days and how
the swimming point got its name.
There is nothing left of the pub except a couple of chimneys, really the area
should be cleared up and returned to nature. The grass is thistle laden grass,
and there was a dingo and a snake or two.
From the clearing we found an information sing saying "to the beach" and we
met up with a group of girls in a school group who were heading home
after finishing an overnight stay at Lake Barracoota. They were telling us
that the wind was strong along the beach making it hard to walk.
We got out the GPS to take bearings and track our path, but unfortunately
there were not enough satellites. When we got to the beach we were glad of
the $50 investment with Scotty, it would have been a long arduous walk from
town to here just to get to the clearing let alone to the lake.
We saw some sea eagles, beautiful creatures soaring in the sky
with seemingly little effort. The beach sand was firm, but in places we sank
about 50mm making each step tiring.
It took around 2 1/2 hours to get to the lake entrance. As it was windy
and cold, my sinuses were playing havoc and my head was about to explode in
pain. The entrance was marked with a signpost. We also had a sign indicating
that the blackberries have been sprayed, so unfortunately we could not eat
them.
To get to the camp site we walked over some sand dunes in the middle of which
was a derelict half buried telegraph pole. Nature's rightful claim.
Then the track ran along a narrow strip on the edge of the lake for a
short distance. Glad the lake was not flooded as it was not much
higher than the water.
The wind gusted whilst Mike was pitching his tent. One of his bags went
sailing into the bulrushes. It was quite amusing to me and Ray as we watched
his precarious techniques to reach out to collect it. Eventually giving up
there was no choice but to strip and wade in.
With the camp site close to the lake side, we were rewarded with a stunning
sunset over the water. We sat quietly watching as the day and night changed
places.
> The site was sheltered and just as well; over the dunes and on the lake
we could hear the wind with all its fury. The temperature dropped to near
freezing so we bedded early at 7pm and slept fitfully for 12 hours.
Day 2 - Lake Wau Wauka
I had to don some warm clothes and balaclava, it was very cold in the morning.
The wind was still strong but fortunately it was blowing in our favour along
the shore. My technical 'Windstopper' pants and top were working
dutifully to their name; it is great to have gear that actually functions to
their specification.
Along the beach we were saddened to see a dead seal. Downwind of it we were
further reminded of it with the assault to our nostrils.
Lake Wau Wauka outlet was reached with a major effort. The camp site was
alongside the outlet in a copse. You cannot get to the lake itself and we
tried hard too !
The water was drinkable as it was a fair way from the ocean. We noticed that
the ocean does break over and into the lake occasionally, but it did not seem
to be too saline.
Day 3 - Bag Howe Hill - but we can't work out how.
We left camp around 8:00am. Our intent was to bag Howe Hill. Our guide book
states:
"Care is also needed because once off your route it's easy to become
totally embarrassed in a maze of steep and scrubby sand ridges"
Three of us, GPS & compass & map and vague instructions gave up:
this place is full of shrub and trees, the route and description is too
vague.
We went back - failure - oh well we tried ! Along the way we saw a
school salmon jumping in the waves. We noted that we took the wrong sand dune
up to the Howe hill peak (there were a couple to choose from) and all was
required was to get to the correct entry gully.
Ray and Mike had a dip in the cool waters of the lake outlet whilst I tried
to get to the lake proper without success. At night we were
entertained by ringtail possums and went for a moonlight walk. Not for long
though, as again we were quite tired and needed the shut-eye.
Day 4 - Nadgee Lake
At 5:00 am I arose after a fitful night of sleeping. I guess it's the noise of
the ocean, the hard bedding or maybe the consecutive long hours of slumber. Ray
also had a restless night. I got up a walked around observing the mist
rising like steam off the water and the sun making its way over the horizon to
lighten up another day.
We were in for a great, varied day of seaside features with lake, dunes and
the ocean. The sand dunes becoming a dominant feature given that we have to
walk over them.
Upon leaving camp we skirted and climbed the dune in an attempt to view lake
Wau Wauka, but could not see it. What the dune did for us though was provide
fantastic views of the ocean and inlet.
The dunes also created a nice windbreak on the leeward side. The slope of the
dunes show the prevalent winds here, today and yesterday was no
exception. I tried sliding down the steep side using my
groundsheet; unsuccessfully, as my feet and buttocks kept burying in the
sand.
The surface of the dune peak provided a firm walking platform. We exited to
a non-existent shipwreck called the Iron Prince. The exit much easier than
the clamber in as there was less vegetation to fight our way through.
We walked on the rocks for a while and head towards Cape Howe. Cape
Howe was covered in shrubbery, our hands got somewhat scarified as every one
of the bushes seemed to have a weapon of sorts.
Some shrubs are pleasant to look at with flowers, menacing behind which are
spikes ready to draw blood.
Conference point, and appalling concrete effigy representing the demarcation
action of the respective authorities who wished to proudly declare the border
line between Victoria and NSW. Thrilling.
We elected to move on to a more amenable place further on for lunch, sitting
on rocks further north. From here the rocks provided shelter and great ocean
views.
Leaving the rocky shore we entered more shrubbery and trees and heath and
swampy heathland. The gaiters and long clothes provided good protection, but
hands were getting cut. We are now in the Nadgee Wildnerness area.
Eventually we reach Nadgee lake, finding a camp site on the northern end.
The lake is quite large and many mosquitoes were around to greet us with a
warm welcome. We were also regaled with the noisy birdsong (if you can
call it that !) of some black galahs with pink markings - the
Glossy Black-Cockatoo.
The water in the lake was questionable, we could smell a dead animal in it
somewhere. We went 50 metres up a stream and took it from a small soak, good
clarity with a few mosquito wrigglers.
The camp site was quite shady and it took some time for it warm up in morning.
At night we had another moonlit walk on the beach. I nearly fell in a pond of
water as it was so clear. Come back and drummed up a gourmet meal
of shitake mushrooms, broccoli, seaweed, peas and pasta. Not a skerrick left
so it must of been palatable.
Day 5 - Newton's Beach
We were in for a big day. We started at 10:00am and finished 5:30pm We elected
to bypass our planned stop at Little river estuary and head on to Newton's
Beach as we wanted a day to ourselves without having to break camp.
The walk was through open heathy fire trails, which were pleasant enough, so
long as you kept clear of those ever sharp shrubs standing by as spectators
ready to embrace you as you walk on past.
We had a couple of detours, we winted to leave our packs at Harry's Hut, but
ended up taking them all the way to the river junction, missing the path that
was supposed to take us to the hut.
The track notes were right about Osprey lookout, luckily there was still a
small sign saying 'nature trail' as we would have easily missed it.
"Osprey Lookout which is a short distance up the 4wd track from the
Nadgee Estuary. It is a spectacular viewing point. The walking track into
Osprey Lookout is inconspicuous and marked only by a small easily missed
sign, so keep your eyes peeled !"
Never boring, the tracks change from open plains to dense scrub with access
tunnel./p>
Breaking through the bushy barrier we are presented with a magnificent sea
cliff ocean vista.
Harry's hut is not far away from the Nadgee river ford. The track down was
menacing with briars ready to catch and tear our flesh. The river was
beautiful and made a great lunch spot. The lyrebirds were in full chorus
today.
We filled our bottles here and crossed on a log with criss-cross saw cuts to
make it easier to walk on. It was however, quite slippery and I went for a bit
of a controlled slide. seeing that the other opted to crawl across.
Harry's hut was in good condition, made of corrugated iron, with a water
tank, actually with water. It also had a shower and dinghy nearby.
We had a bit of a detour trying to get to our camp site at Little Beach- it
pays to check maps and notes often in this area. Little Beach had a toilet,
and did not appeal to us for camping.
We pressed on to Newton's Beach arriving at nightfall, we pitched our tents,
went for a bit of a stroll under the stars and moonlight.
Day 6 Rest day
We arose at 7:00am after a good night's sleep, the most restful so far for me.
Another sunny day, we've been in good luck all this trip. We pumped water from
a river I discovered last night.
A walk up the beach lead us to some caves.
I took a towel and had a bit of a swim. The water is quite invigorating,
but it is nice to freshen up after the consecutive days of walking.
I had a go at fishing near the mouth off the rocks, but the fish were not
tempted and lived to tell another tale.It was nice to spend a day here .
Day 7 Time to go
A fire trail leads our way out to river outlet. The rocks were adorned with
oysters which proved to be a very nice tasty treat.
The motley crew - Stuart, Mike and Ray.
Back at the hostel, Mike felt a tick. I had a go at getting it out, but did
not want to disrupt it too much so refused to go any further. Breaking its
head off or squeezing it could lead to lots of problems with
Lyme disease and so forth.
Doctors, nurses, pharmacists with freeze spray are the best options - if of
course you are near one, or using eucalyptus / tea tree oil. Anyway, he
got it out eventually using tweezers as we had nothing else.
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